Auchindrain Township, Argyll
As you all are probably aware at this point, I’m pretty into old stone stuff. I spend a lot of my spare time visiting and learning about historic stone-based sites in Scotland. And yet, I had never even heard of Auchindrain (Achadh an Droighinn) Township, despite it being completely and totally up my street, until we planned our summer 2024 trip to Argyll.
Before the extensive Highland clearances, there were hundreds of townships across Scotland, and Auchindrain (which has been around since the 1500s) is the only one to have survived largely unaltered. It’s an important part of Scotland’s history and a very special place.
I was expecting to have to drive up some lonely B-road, then a few miles up a bumpy, stone-studded track to reach Auchindrain. However, it is literally right off the A83.
At the front desk we were given an iPad that contains so much information on a well designed UI. Everything you could want to know about the history, buildings and the people who lived there, conveniently held in your hands as you walk through the township.
For someone who is so into drystone’s history in Scotland, entering the township was very exciting. As we walked up the well worn track, we were offered some tantalising glimpses of what we could expect to see. And as a special treat, the sky, somewhere between rain and sun, offered the most vibrant and warm light.
There are twenty-two buildings in Auchindrain, twelve of which have been restored/maintained. The restoration is incredibly well done. For example, the barn pictured below has been beautifully (and authentically) restored by volunteers from the West of Scotland DSWA.
It’s amazing to see the buildings and the stonework, but one of the biggest factors of enjoyment at Auchindrain is the atmosphere. Hundreds of years of history and lives lived hanging in the air around you, imbued into the stone.
Some of the buildings at Auchindrain are the former homes of residents. These structures have also been lovingly restored, including the interiors. We spent so much time looking at all the details. From stonework and paint, to cooking implements, to textiles, to trinkets and decorations. In many of the buildings you can still smell the smoke from the fires that permeated the wood over many years.
Because Auchindrain is setup as a sort of living museum, there are props everywhere and walking into a barn, I commented on the attention to detail - Four tiny birds placed on a rafter.
Except as I looked closer, iI realised that they weren’t prop birds at all, instead very real, very scared, very still baby birds. That’s when I heard the frantic calls of their parents outside and exited the space so the young family could be reunited.
Auchindrain sits on twenty-two acres so there is a lot of exploring to do. And around the township are lots of lovely details - From handmade gates, to handmade rafters, to the irrigation channels cut into the ground. And of course some lovely drystone.
If you get good weather you could spend hours and hours at Auchindrain. Although I was there without my kids this time, I think they (especially my youngest, age nine) would love exploring here. And there is a lot of room to run around, as well as picnic benches and a wee cafe.
As we were leaving I heard a family complaining about the price of the tickets. They’re really not too bad in my opinion - £12 for an adult, concessions £9 and under 18s just £6. Plus, once you have your ticket it is valid for a whole year, and your contributions are towards the upkeep of this incredible, important place.
I’ve been lucky enough to visit many historic sites in Scotland and this is easily one of my favourites, maybe even my favourite.
Open April to September every year, Tuesday to Saturday from 10am to 3.30pm. Last entry is at 2.30pm.
Go, Go, Go!